Grand Tour

The North Coast

Three days on the wild side of the NC500: Wester Ross, Assynt and the empty far north.

Scottish Highlands ☀ When to go: May, June and September are kindest; open all year, though snow can shut the Bealach na Ba for days between November and March Routes Pro
Days33 overnight stops
Roads10hand-picked
Great driving169miles on the good bits
High point633metres · 2077 ft

The North Coast 500 has a reputation problem: most people drive it too fast, in the wrong order, and miss the roads that made it famous. This is the corrected version. It takes the western half slowly, where every great road on the route actually lives, and treats the famous bits as a finale rather than a checklist.

Expect single track with passing places, sheep with no road sense, and weather that changes its mind hourly. That is the point. Fill up when you can, book the overnights ahead in summer, and give the Bealach the respect its gradients deserve. The midges own the calm evenings of July and August; May, June and September belong to you.

Day 1

Into Wester Ross

Overnight: Torridon

West out of Inverness through Glen Carron to Lochcarron, then the Bealach na Ba over to Applecross for lunch by the bay. Return along the coast road and the shore of Loch Torridon, beneath mountains built of some of the oldest rock in Europe.

Day 2

Assynt and the far north-west

Overnight: Durness

Through Glen Torridon to Kinlochewe, then Loch Maree and the Wester Ross coast. The Destitution Road carries you to Braemore, down to Ullapool for fuel and chowder, then the Assynt back roads by Lochinver and over the Kylesku bridge. The last hour to Durness is as empty as Britain gets.

Day 3

The roof of Scotland

Overnight: Inverness

East along the fjord-like shore of Loch Eriboll to Tongue, then the long, empty single track across the Flow Country brings you south. If you have one more road in you, finish on General Wade's quiet military road along the far shore of Loch Ness.